The rebirth of Lisbon’s Cais do Sodré
For years, riverside Cais do Sodré was one of Lisbon's seediest neighbourhoods. Its backstreets were the haunt of whisky-slugging sailors craving a little after-dark sleaze; a lacklustre place where brothels sidled up to sweaty clubs.
Related slideshow: Lisbon's vibrant neighbourhoods
Then suddenly everything changed. In late 2011, the district was given a makeover. Its main street, Rua Nova do Carvalho, was painted a welcoming bright pink and the call girls were sent packing, but the edginess and decadence on which Lisbon thrives remained. Live music venues, burlesque clubs and tapas bars began to pop up with astonishing frequency, and soon thereafter, Cais do Sodré had upstaged Bairro Alto as Lisbon's most happening nightlife district.
Similar to Bairro Alto, the vibe in Cais do Sodré is bohemian. Do not bother turning up anywhere much before midnight, as this is when the crowds descend. If you want to get a full taste of the area, here are a few of the neighbourhood's hottest bars and live music venues, perfect for a late-night bar crawl.
Tinned fish tapas
You do not need much imagination to see what Sol e Pesca once was. Rods, nets, hooks and fish charts give away the tiny bar's former life as a fishing-tackle shop. Glass cabinets are stacked with vintage-looking tins of sardines, tuna, octopus and other kinds of seafood (or conservas as the Portuguese say). The concept is simple: grab a chair, order a tin or two, and accompany it with bread, olives, white wine and good company. Sol e Pesca is open until 4 am on weekends.
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The rebirth of Lisbon’s Cais do Sodré
For years, riverside Cais do Sodré was one of Lisbon's seediest neighbourhoods. Its backstreets were the haunt of whisky-slugging sailors craving a little after-dark sleaze; a lacklustre place where brothels sidled up to sweaty clubs.
Related slideshow: Lisbon's vibrant neighbourhoods
Then suddenly everything changed. In late 2011, the district was given a makeover. Its main street, Rua Nova do Carvalho, was painted a welcoming bright pink and the call girls were sent packing, but the edginess and decadence on which Lisbon thrives remained. Live music venues, burlesque clubs and tapas bars began to pop up with astonishing frequency, and soon thereafter, Cais do Sodré had upstaged Bairro Alto as Lisbon's most happening nightlife district.
Similar to Bairro Alto, the vibe in Cais do Sodré is bohemian. Do not bother turning up anywhere much before midnight, as this is when the crowds descend. If you want to get a full taste of the area, here are a few of the neighbourhood's hottest bars and live music venues, perfect for a late-night bar crawl.
Tinned fish tapas
You do not need much imagination to see what Sol e Pesca once was. Rods, nets, hooks and fish charts give away the tiny bar's former life as a fishing-tackle shop. Glass cabinets are stacked with vintage-looking tins of sardines, tuna, octopus and other kinds of seafood (or conservas as the Portuguese say). The concept is simple: grab a chair, order a tin or two, and accompany it with bread, olives, white wine and good company. Sol e Pesca is open until 4 am on weekends.
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